Can You Change An Oil Filter Without Draining The Oil

20IndigoBlue02

Fram seems to get a lot of poor press. If you await at a new Fram filter and compare information technology to any of a number of other filters, you will probable see a existent difference in how it appears with cardboard construction etc.

Fram's cardboard endcaps in canister filters don't really apply to this situation, since we are talking about cartridge filters hither.

Of grade no one says the Mann cartridge filters that uses some sort of resin-impregnated newspaper equally the endcaps, including the ALH application, versus the interwebz preferred metal endcap cloth.

ruking · Nov 17, 2010

YES, Merely...Don't WORRY, be happy !! It is actually a rebranded "Isle of man", which is one vendor that does oem for VW. As such, those oems conform to 30,000 miles OCI'due south.

Now the ones I saw (@WalMart & local Kragen's) were actually MORE expensive than what you can get any oem ones (MANN, Hengst, Bosch, etc)and from the VW dealers!!??

Conceptually it is every bit easy every bit (msg #7 sez); unscrew the cap/superlative, raise the now dripping old filter, (I put a plastic container under it, one of ii expressly for catching used oil, any mess is contained inside the ...container) and drop in the new filter (top on the UP side) and rethread the cap/top back on.

jeremy1701 · Nov 17, 2010

You can change the filter without changing the oil. You'll need an oil filter cap [wrench], which you tin can get at Autozone. I would wait a few minutes (maybe like 10) so that any oil would have a chance to drain out; but not as well long, as then the oil will start to thicken. It will be *messy*. Y'all should be able to pull the filter straight up out of the housing and and then concur it there to let the oil drain back into the filter housing. Have a thick cardboard box within reach so that y'all tin take hold of it and put information technology under the filter. A thin box (like the one the new filter will come in) will leak rapidly, apply something much thicker. Don't move the filter to the box, or you will drip oil all over the place; instead, move the box under the filter. Be certain to check your oil level when finished and peak information technology off.

In all honesty, if you're concerned well-nigh it, I would but modify the oil.

Hope that helps!

jeremy1701

lol... Thanks honeydew! I did mean wrench and edited my post to include it.

I constitute I could non employ the strap style wrench b/c the lip on the oil filter cap was simply also small. The cap wrench is seriously about $5 at AZ. Very worth the price for the massive caput ache you lot save (IMHO).

jeremy1701

I thought I read here that the oil filter wrench from AZ does a poor job due to improper grip. Check out the real ane from Metalnerd.

It works fine for me. I've never had an issue with it. Do you take linkage to Metalnerds product? I'yard always happy to assist out someone on a forum making a custom part rather then getting the one from Bigbox.

Edit: Found it. Looks like the same ane I have. http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm

n1das · Nov 17, 2010

Conceptually it is as easy as (msg #7 sez); unscrew the cap/top, raise the now dripping old filter, (I put a plastic container under information technology, i of two expressly for catching used oil, any mess is independent within the ...container) and driblet in the new filter (top on the Upwards side) and rethread the cap/height dorsum on.

Important!: Be sure to fill up the housing upward with oil before reinstalling the cap/top. This serves to wet the new filter and forbid oil starvation at startup. The oil filter should accept a dam inside that prevents the filter from emptying completely subsequently shutdown to go along oil in there for the next start. Since you're installing a fresh filter that'south DRY and empty, you need to prime it with oil before putting the cap back on.

I say "should" about the oil dam because early version filters didn't accept an oil dam in there. These early on filters didn't take a meridian and lesser orientation. Heir-apparent beware, some aftermarket brands may still exist using the old blueprint. Purchase only the latest OEM filter to exist sure you've got the right filter.

Former & BAD filter: Practice NOT USE!!!! (1999.5 - 2001 timeframe?)

Yous will experience severe oil starvation at startup with this filter.

NEW filter design with oil dam inside:

This filter has OBEN/TOP on it and is the right filter to utilize. When I bought oil filters back in 2002, I checked them while even so at the dealer's parts counter to brand sure I got the correct filter. The only reason I mention this nearly the oil dams is some aftermarket brands might notwithstanding be using the sometime pattern....more reason to stick to OEM filters.

Original "Damn the Oil Dams!" thread:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=32782

Adept luck.

jeremy1701

@77k20 - I felt the aforementioned way when I first got my Beetle. It's non and then bad. In fact, at present that I've done it a bunch of times, I really like the paper filters ameliorate. Easier to change, not nearly as messy and totally less waste matter then those large ole metal filters.

@n1das - I did not know that. Thanks for the info! I'll keep it in mind moving forward.

ruking · Nov xviii, 2010

Thanks for all the replies. I have worked a lot on gassers- but the TDI is a bit out of my realm of comfort. I have never seen a cartridge filter earlier.

I'chiliad only going to leave information technology in for around 5,000 so change it. Information technology is still a stupor at how black that oil is right after an oil modify. Gotta change the way I retrieve virtually a few things.

Y'all can actually use the filter for up to 30,000 miles !!!!! My last OCI was actually @ 30,700 miles. Irresolute oil and filter @ five,000 miles is a severe waste material of time, money, resource, and indeed makes more wear metals, i.e., MORE AGGRESSIVE habiliment patterns. I would apply a minimum of the VW recommendation which is @ x,000 miles OCI. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=296388

ruking · November eighteen, 2010

Unfortunately Pete idea UOAs were accurate down to the ppm when he fabricated that mail service.

The principle of longer intervals not e'er being bad is correct, the assay is wholly wrong. A right analysis would be wear rates remained the same. Margin of error PLUS real earth impact negates any minor variation.

3.3 ppm Fe/ 10K and ii.95 ppm Fe / 10K are so close to the same it does not matter, even if it was accurate and not merely margin of error. Absolutely no existent world, functional divergence. Aforementioned goes for the rest of the wear metals.

He (I will let him speak for himself) and I more straight actually put UOA's in context. You lot and I have discussed this in other threads, so I will non reprint. I remember your analysis that the assay done is wholly wrong is ...incorrect. At present while a 5,000 miles UOA was Not done, you seem to signal that it would be even more benign, which would go confronting the results indicated in both the 10,000 miles OCI and 22,000 miles OCI's. And so for case if whatsoever UOA from 1,000 miles to 30,000 miles are statistically shown to be fine, why would anyone want to do shorter intervals, UNLESS they were experiencing statistically ODD issues? In other threads, (concerning this subject) you lot have steadfastly refused to deal with this and other issues. Indeed you decline to address the simple upshot posed by drivbiwire

..."Y'all come across everything I saw, makes you wonder why everyone would perform an early on oil alter!"...

jettawreck · Nov 18, 2010

I take for quite a while replaced the OEM filter every other oil change. Paticles in the filter stay in the filter. They are quite capable of running far more than than 20K (2 10K oil changes). People make fashion too big of a deal out of oil filters. Have yous ever seen a healthy TDI running expert speced oil clog up, or fifty-fifty start to fill up, an oil filter? I don't call up then. Leaves a bunch of dirty oil behind to contaminate the new oil? NO. The oil you lot should be running is capable of going double, or more, the 10K interval (equally many do, UOA or not) so why would a half pint or so ruin the almost 4 qts of new oil? Worry less.
Its not about being besides cheap to spring for the extra $8 for a new filter every 10K, that's a non-event. Its only a why waste information technology if its still got a lot of use left in it? Plus there is less disposal hassle. European spec cars (different oil perchance) run 30K+, on the same filter. If you have recently done major piece of work on an engine, or had issues, then more frequent oil/filter changes may exist a great maintainance practise.
You have to do what y'all are comfortable with on your vehicle. Your results tin and volition vary. This schedule works for me, perhaps not others.

ruking · November 18, 2010

I have for quite a while replaced the OEM filter every other oil alter. Paticles in the filter stay in the filter. They are quite capable of running far more than 20K (two 10K oil changes). People make fashion too big of a deal out of oil filters. Have you ever seen a healthy TDI running good speced oil clog up, or fifty-fifty beginning to fill upwards, an oil filter? I don't call back so. Leaves a bunch of dirty oil backside to contaminate the new oil? NO. The oil you should be running is capable of going double, or more, the 10K interval (as many do, UOA or non) so why would a half pint or so ruin the almost 4 qts of new oil? Worry less.
Its not virtually being too inexpensive to bound for the extra $8 for a new filter every 10K, that'due south a not-issue. Its just a why waste product information technology if its even so got a lot of apply left in it? Plus in that location is less disposal hassle. European spec cars (different oil perhaps) run 30K+, on the aforementioned filter. If you take recently washed major work on an engine, or had issues, so more than frequent oil/filter changes may exist a corking maintainance exercise.
Y'all have to exercise what you are comfy with on your vehicle. Your results can and will vary. This schedule works for me, perhaps not others.

I would concur. The "frighters" really try to swell with the "as well cheap" taunt. To me information technology is all about hooking up with the realities !!?? The realities mostly (unless others that read this are indeed experiencing odd statistical anomalies) are as Yous say !! It is not rocket scientific discipline !!! Its....lubrication.

I mean really no "frighter" has sent me a prepaid UOA bottle/s for me to send off a UOA to a lab of their selection; for either snapshots or trend analysis on my 03 TDI with 25,000 miles to 30,700 miles OCI'south !!?? Why? I think they are really afraid what I am actually doing is... just fine !!!???

And so in the concluding analysis it is non what I think or how well or non I argue the points, it is really a testament on how "maintenance" free the VW TDI really IS and/or can be. and ... how rugged it really is. I hateful if 1 can exercise a very (from nearly ) ambitious i,000 miles OCI to (lesser aggressive) 30,000 miles OCI and the affair will ordinarily last far longer than about folks statistically keep most cars (even TDI'due south) life is expert !!??

This is not to say that VW has the lock on what I said. I actually run a 04 Honda Civic with 114,000 miles on 20,000 miles OCI'south. Filters actually run the gambit, ie. best sales from the EXPENSIVE FRAM two.75 per to WalMart everyday price on Champion Labs filters @ 2.12 per. I do run Mobil One 0w20 and 5w20.

Bob_Fout · November 18, 2010

He (I volition allow him speak for himself) and I more straight actually put UOA's in context. Yous and I have discussed this in other threads, so I volition non reprint. I think your analysis that the analysis done is wholly wrong is ...wrong. Now while a 5,000 miles UOA was NOT washed, you seem to indicate that information technology would be fifty-fifty more than benign, which would go against the results indicated in both the ten,000 miles OCI and 22,000 miles OCI's. So for example if any UOA from 1,000 miles to 30,000 miles are statistically shown to be fine, why would anyone want to do shorter intervals, UNLESS they were experiencing statistically ODD issues? In other threads, (concerning this subject) yous take steadfastly refused to deal with this and other issues. Indeed y'all reject to address the unproblematic upshot posed by drivbiwire

..."Yous see everything I saw, makes you lot wonder why anybody would perform an early oil alter!"...

I can only straight both parties [yourself and Pete] involved to BITOG to enquire actual SMEs virtually how accurate UOAs are and how they should exist used. I've done this.

Any issues I refuse to address could be because they're non germane to the give-and-take at manus.

Margin of error and repeatability are in high schoolhouse and higher Chemistry.

ruking · Nov 18, 2010

I tin can merely direct both parties [yourself and Pete] involved to BITOG to inquire actual SMEs about how authentic UOAs are and how they should exist used. I've done this.

Any issues I pass up to address could be because they're not germane to the discussion at paw.

Margin of error and repeatability are in loftier schoolhouse and college Chemistry.

So what you lot are saying is that UOA'south of short OCI'southward take no/less/more margin of mistake and repeatability? Y'all are likewise ignoring the basic purpose of UOA's Tendency lines. Are yous really making a case for you having to echo HS and college chemistry?